james finnigan
1 posts
Joined: 08/08/2008 08:53:10
Location: colchester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Roller Idler Bearing Fitting -Transfer/Drop Gears - Help!!
Hi, I am in the process of fitting Straight Cut Tranfer/Drop gears to my 1275 S. My gearbox is a remote pre A+, which means the idler hole in the gearbox and casing is smaller than later boxes. The idler gear holes have a needle idler bearings fitted in them and then the idler gear slots into these bearings. However!!!!, the SC idler has central roller bearings and the end shafts are the same dimensions as the the holes in the case and box. As such you do away with the needle bearings and the slot the idler gear directly in the hole. Here is where my problem is; Attempting to slot the gear into the gearbox casing it is as tight as hell, infact I would be suprised if it fits. I would be affraid of splitting the casing or Gearbox housing if forced in. Is it standard accepted practise to have to polish out the holes slightly to allow fitment???. I am 100% confident that the idler roller bearing is the correct part. I have also tried the idler roller bearing in 2 other casings and its just as impossible. So I am not adverse to lubricating it and taping it in with a rubber hammer or polishing the hole slightly larger, BUT WHICH IS IT ?? lol If you dont now the answer but may know a man/women that has fitted a roller idler bearing gear (PreA+Remote), please make contact.
Hi,
I am in the process of fitting Straight Cut Tranfer/Drop gears to my 1275 S.
My gearbox is a remote pre A+, which means the idler hole in the gearbox and casing is smaller than later boxes.
The idler gear holes have a needle idler bearings fitted in them and then the idler gear slots into these bearings.
However!!!!, the SC idler has central roller bearings and the end shafts are the same dimensions as the the holes in the case and box. As such you do away with the needle bearings and the slot the idler gear directly in the hole.
Here is where my problem is;
Attempting to slot the gear into the gearbox casing it is as tight as hell, infact I would be suprised if it fits. I would be affraid of splitting the casing or Gearbox housing if forced in.
Is it standard accepted practise to have to polish out the holes slightly to allow fitment???.
I am 100% confident that the idler roller bearing is the correct part. I have also tried the idler roller bearing in 2 other casings and its just as impossible.
So I am not adverse to lubricating it and taping it in with a rubber hammer or polishing the hole slightly larger, BUT WHICH IS IT ?? lol
If you dont now the answer but may know a man/women that has fitted a roller idler bearing gear (PreA+Remote), please make contact.
Posted: Jan 23, 2010 06:59 PM
Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Pre A-Plus Drop Gear Housing onto A Plus Block
Hi i am currently building an A Plus engine but the Drop Gear housing is damaged beyond use but i do have a very good Pre A Plus drop gear housing now i know that this pre A Plus housing has a much smaller idler gear bearing than the A Plus 3/4" diameter pin on the A Plus idler Gear but i was wondering is it possible to get the Pre A Plus housing machined to take the A Plus idler bearing or get the A Plus idler pin machined to fit the Pre A Plus Bearing or am i going to have to scrap the idea and shell out for a New casing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Posted: May 04, 2009 03:43 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
oil leak please help me in my mayfair 1992
I believe the primary gears, idler gears and gearbox bearings can also make an unpleasant noise when worn too?
Posted: Sep 07, 2007 01:45 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
fouling plugs
well im not sure if the oil really affects the sycro bulk rings that much. There basicly tiny cluches that run in oil. so for them to work they need friction if the oil stopped that then they would not work. so to get the friction i think they are spring loaded. if the oil is thick there will be less friction so it will take longer to speed up the gear to work. if the oil is thin the friction will be greater so the syncro will work quicker. so overall i think they balence out in wear, thicker oil prob has the advantage tho but not by alot. thats my opinion tho have no reserch to back it up. id use 20w50 if u have done over 60,000 miles but dont think 15w40 wouldnt do much harm, i use 15w40 in my engine of 77k as most 20w50 oil in the shops is really cheap and i dont trust it i use castrol gtx for higher milage engines as i think it shud be made to a high standard and have good addatives. the oil thinkness is mostly for main bearings and bores, i dont know about the idler gear tho gess ul have to look and cheak to be sure, the idler gears are expensive so u usually just replace the bearing they run in and there are seval sizes, u have to cheak ur gearbox casting number to cheak which.
Posted: Jan 13, 2007 12:10 AM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Noisy gearbox at 3,000rpm
It could be various problems. The gact it goes away when you put your foot on the clutch doesnt help a whole lot because you are not only slowing the rotational speed of the parts down, but removing the load as well. It could be the idler gear bearings, maybe badly/incorrectly shimmed idler gear, worn out mainshaft double roller bearing, badly/incorrectly shimmed diff bearings.... Is it noiser in any particular gear on your way up throug hthe box? As has been stated - the standard box is pretty strong when properly built. KC.
Posted: Feb 06, 2006 10:08 PM
Joel Hoffman
2 posts
Joined: 20/03/2009 02:48:11
Location: Fuquay Varina United States
Flywheel Housing Installation Problem
Last Fall, I did a thorough overhaul on a Metro engine that was previously installed in an early Mini. The engine was supposedly rebuilt about 5000 miles ago by an experienced Mini shop in the USA (where I am located). It had blown a head gasket, and I purchased it in this condition. Whoever assembled it the last time made some "errors", so I question how much experience the shop actually had. The oil thrower was installed the wrong way, causing it to rub on the double row timing chain, there was a scratch around a rod bearing shell indicating dirt when assembled, a piston had a small piece missing from the skirt. You get the idea. The engine now has been assembled properly with a replacement flowed head, new bearings, Kent 286 camshaft properly degreed in, 73.5mm pistons with 9cc dish, the compression ratio carefully measured out and set at 10.5:1, and a lot of other things ----- all put together in a clean environment. The project has been idling (pun intended) for a few months and it's time to get it moving again. I just assembled the transmission to the engine, and installed the drop gears. I did no work to the transmission as it seems good and was overhauled recently. When installing the flywheel housing, the primary gear can be easily rotated until I firm up the last two bottom bolts inside the housing. Then, it takes much more force to rotate the primary gear. If I loosen up either of the two bottom bolts, it rotates freely again. Ok, so something is binding. I've taken the housing off a couple of times trying to figure out what is causing the problem with nothing obvious seen. I can still rotate the primary gear with the two bottom bolts tight, but it takes a lot of effort. The primary gear end clearance is correct, and nothing was changed with this assembly, The thrust washers on each side of the idler gear are the same ones that were in the engine when I disassembled it, but may have been changed from one side to the other when the motor was apart. I also cannot tell if the idler gear was turned over side for side from how it was assembled originally. The bearing at the end of the first motion shaft bearing was not removed. I'd appreciate any insight into what the problem might be. Thanks!!!!!
Posted: Apr 25, 2010 07:50 PM
diddi
37 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 09:03:12
Location: St. Ingbert Germany
noisy gears
The noise that you describe and also the dragging noise that disappears when depressing the clutch pedal is the definite indication for the transfer gears i.e. idler gear bearings failure. Please don´t drive the car anymore before this is repaired. If you are very lucky, and i doubt you are, its only the idler gear bearings. But, if it´s already that noisy, usually the transfer gear housing and maybe also the gearbox itself are already damaged and you may also nead a complete transfer gear set. Both can be repaired by a competent machine shop but, it would be easier/cheaper to get a 2nd hand gearbox plus transfer gear housing or maybe even a complete engine/gearbox unit. To check the extent of the damage, it´s an engine-out-job and the clutch and transfer gear housing must be removed. Sorry for these bad news but this is a common problem with minis. Cheers, Diddi
Posted: Jan 27, 2006 04:22 PM
Woody
73 posts
Joined: 29/01/2008 18:58:20
Location: NORWICH United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wanted...
Hi all,1. if anyones got a complete gearbox they want to sell, doesn't matter if it crunches as i can mend that as long as it is complete.(later type rod change)2. if no gearbox, i need to find a diff casing / the 2 plates that house the driveshaft seals that bolt to the side of the gearbox3. i also need the casing that holds the idler bearings/gears (also housing the starter motor)ThanksDan Can collect from Norfolk area
Posted: May 02, 2011 02:23 PM
Mk2 Mini - Engine and Gearbox
yeah i agree with mark be better to convert to unleaded if not already and use its engine, if it wears it can be rebuilt to as new with original pistons if u use liners (factor blocks sometimes even had these fitted). the crank can be reground many times and even if something did wear out there are enouth spares avalible for 998's that it wouldnt be a problem. the problem with fitting a+ to ur box is the drop gears on a+ and a are differnt and not interchangeable. you will need all A type drop gears the truble there is the idler gear in A+ has a bigger bearing in the block than A series. adaper is avalible tho. wiring will be a problem to convert to alternator ect. but basicly ur more likly to damage the engine having it off the gearbox and damaging wiring to fit the other engine. also if something happened to u there is a risk the engine and mini will become separated. just use the engine do regular oil changes 20w50 oil every 3000 miles and get it converted to unleaded. morspeed is gd for unleaded conversion very gd prices. u can rebuild and A series engine around 5 times normally so that is about 600,000 miles plenty. after that bits normally wont be able to be reground so ud get second hand parts and rebuild with them. most normal A series parts are same as cooper 998, exception is conrods, headcylinder, camshaft, pistons . original 998 cooper pistons are no longer avalible and 998 cooper head's are rare but can still be purchased at a price, conrods are same as those used in austin 1100, camshaft is same as many others used on other models but be best to upgrade anyway to more modern profile.
Posted: Jan 28, 2008 07:41 PM
TENJIN
Joined: 07/10/2004 13:57:59
Location: Swindon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear box rattle at idle
After doing a 100 mile trip my 1991 Cooper carb 1293 has started making a new rattle noise when stationary and idling.
When I push the clutch to the floor the noise disappears.
BTW, the engine was rebuilt 1000 miles ago, but the box was left unchanged. Rebuild of engine included a rebore to 1293, new pistons, replacement head, new clutch. Everything else is standard. The engine and box had done 55K before the engine rebuild.
Any ideas? I've been told that the idler gear / bearing may have become worn, and I have been advised not to drive the car until it has been replaced.
I am reasonably capable with mechanical work, although I have never rebuilt a gearbox before. How difficult is it to replace the idler gear and bearings?
Cheers
D.
Posted: Jun 22, 2006 03:11 PM
patmaher
11 posts
Joined: 05/08/2005 17:17:54
Location: london United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
gearbox noise
Hi all, does anyone know y my mini sounds like its in reverse in all gears. i have a 1979 998cc mini, got a 1992 coper engine and gearbox and fitted it. it goes really well. apart from this noise. it makes a dragging noise when not in gear, but the noise goes if i press the clutch. the 988 was over heating, which turns out to be a water pump that has no fins at all!!!. one of the bolts snaped (i knew it would) and the wear is really bad on the rear cylinder. so ive give up on that engine for now. i dont know now if i should try to sort the problem, or use the 988 gearbox that i know is good. i understand ill have to change the primary gear, maybe the idler, and get a bearing cause the new engine is a+ (i think, 1992????). could it be that the problem is the primary gear, or idler??? please help. any input on this would be of help, cause i really dont know, and am thinking maybe it`s easier to get another engine and box???? thanks for reading. Pat
Posted: Jan 15, 2006 10:45 PM
K. Calver
Mini and Metro gearbox
easiest way is to fit idler bearing with adaptor sleeve part number DAM3745 - this converts the bigger A+ idler bearing down to the earlier pre-A+ size. You MUST re-shim the ilder gear though. KC.
Posted: Apr 22, 2006 01:04 AM
GuessWorks
14 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 13:02:00
Location: Rugby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Yes you can put an A+ block onto a remote gearbox, you wont have ANY issue with the drop gears, as the Idler bearing is in the gearbox, not the block, so you'll be using your existing A series drop gears and A series transfer case...
However, there's no reason why you should change, it's not like 998's wear out much and everything is servicable.
Posted: Feb 05, 2008 06:56 PM
jag_clarke
gearbox
it will need to be an A+ 998 gearbox or big ends of 1275 will catch. can be a series one can be modifyied. if part number starts DAM you will be fine. also if gearbox and engine arnt both same type ie A+ or a series u may have somes issues with drop gears as idlers use differnt bearing size. as taffy said diff ratio might be differnt but this wont affect it working and wont affect speedo if its an a+ box and a+ speedo. u can count the teath on crown and pinion or give me gearbox casting number and i should be able to find out what it should be. if its 3.4 its gd sporty high acceleration if its 2.95 it will be gd economy poorer acceleration. 3.1 a half way house. in terms of strength 998 box and 1275 are both same so u dont need to uprate anything as such.
things that u might what to uprate/ replace diff pin with uprated one, bulk rings on 1st and second may be worn out causing grating into 1st and 2nd partically on change down. a complete rebuild kit is £130. if ur going to be producing over around 100bhp crosspin diff or limited slip diff would prob be gd bet all depending on budget. a new mildly uprated clutch plate should be fine. steel flywheel if ur budget allows to get 0-30mph times right down.
also if ur mini is rod change make sure u have rodchange box not pre 74? remote box.
Posted: Nov 09, 2008 01:07 PM
stuart wood
Joined: 02/09/2015 08:12:36
Location: whiterashes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Drop gears
Hi, I have a 1380 fast road engine fitted with straight box and drop gear set, the drop gears are 24, 31 , 24. The bearing on the idler gear failed and has damaged the shaft on the gear so it needs replaced.
All I can seem to find is 30 tooth options, will this fit or do I need to buy the whole matching set?
Many thanks
Posted: Jun 09, 2019 07:31 AM
Martin
25 posts
Joined: 19/12/2006 12:59:18
Location: West Cowes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
possible noisy release bearing please advise
I'm very interested in what kind of noise you are getting. Please can you describe it? how do you know that your noise is coming from the clutch side of things?
I'm interested because I get a whine from my engine whenever it's accelerating or under load. It dissapears when the clutch is down.
I was suspecting worn transfer gear bearings but could it be the clutch release bearing?
A worn clutch release bearing would be much easier to replace than say a worn idler bearing!
Thanks!
Posted: Jan 08, 2008 07:53 AM
Constant whining sound from engine!
I have a 1972 998cc Clubman saloon.
When driving (in any gear) I get a whining sound from the engine/gearbox. It dissapears when the clutch is down. It is more apparent when accelerating or when putting load on the engine when engine braking.
I've tried to do some research which has lead me to think that this could be the idler bearing/thrust washers or due to a problem with the transfer gears.
Does anyone have any suggestions what I should do next to fix this. which parts need overhauling/replacing and Is this a job I can do with the engine in the car, what sort of cost am I looking at? Does anyone recommend anyone in the south (hants or Isle of wight) that can do the work for me to sort this out!
Many thanks!
Posted: Jan 02, 2008 08:28 AM